how a sewing machine works.
Hello cosbunnies! Last time I went over all of the hand tools you’ll want to have in your kit, so this time why don’t we discuss the crown jewel of sewing technology: the sewing machine!
There are several types of sewing machines on the market so I suggest doing some research on what you’ll be needing. Most beginning and intermediate cosplayers can get away with a standard home machine like a Brother, Kenmore, or Bernina. If you still live with your parents or have access to their sewing machine, you’ll want to take advantage of that parent’s (or grandparent’s) knowledge of their machine. If you’re really lucky they’ll have a Husqvarna Viking, Pfaff, or a vintage Singer you can use. If they’ve been properly cared for, they’re great machines. Lastly, you could hunt down a Juki industrial machine. This is a very fast machine though, and I don’t recommend it for beginners. It’s also really expensive though it lasts forever, and can only do a straight stitch (though I’m sure there’s other models that have an expanded stitch repertoire, I’ve just only used the basic industrial).
These are only a fraction of the machines available and if you’re in the market to buy one, I strongly urge you to do some research before you do. Here were my criteria for finding a machine:
- Straight and zig-zag stitches - Every machine should be able to do at least a straight stitch. Pretty much all modern machines have a zig-zag as well.
- Button hole stitch - You can get away with just using a tight zig-zag (I’ll explain button holes in a later post) but having one built into the machine is really nice.
- Side loading bobbin - As I said in the basic supplies post, a top loading bobbin is an awful configuration so I made sure my machine had one that loaded in the side to avoid a lot of headaches.
- Interchangeable feet - Necessary for doing all different stitches and sewing all kinds of fabric!
- Built in bobbin winder - It’s a pain to have to wind a bobbin on a separate machine so make sure your machine has this feature.
- Strong enough to sew through multiple thick layers of fabric - Cosplay will often involve pleather or other heavy fabric and I wanted to be ready. I also plan on some period costuming which means heavy upholstery fabric and thick gathers for Tudor stuff.
Most machines come with all this stuff so even if you do find a cheap one make sure you take a look at all its features and some reviews, and even try out a floor model in a store if at all possible so you’re sure you’re getting what you need.
Now let’s take a look at how a sewing machine works. This is just a general overview of the features of a standard machine, since even though the models vary, they all basically work the same way.
- Bobbin - A standard sewing machine works by having an upper thread which comes off a spool and a lower thread, which comes off a bobbin. Bobbins will come in a specific size for your machine so make sure you check the manual as to which ones it takes.
- Bobbin winder - Usually on top of the machine, this will wind the thread evenly on your bobbin.
- Thread spindle - This is where the spool of thread is mounted at the top of the machine. It can either be standing straight up or on it’s side, like on my machine.
- Thread guides - When threading the machine, you need to pull the thread through these guides so it will have the right amount of tension to sew your garment.
- Needle - Pretty obvious. It’s held in place by a screw so if it breaks or you need another type, you can easily replace it.
- Bobbin casing - Some machines don’t use these, but most side loading ones do. You put your bobbin in here when you load it into the machine and it helps guide the bobbin thread where it needs to go.
- Throat plate and feed dogs - The throat plate is the big metal bit that surrounds the feed dogs, covers the bobbin casing, and creates a surface for your fabric. There’s usually lines on it for easy measuring of seam allowances. Feed dogs are the little rows of teeth that grip your fabric and help it through the machine as you’re sewing.
- Presser foot - There are a bunch of different kinds of presser feet, which I’ll get to later, but they all do the same basic thing; hold the fabric in position while the machine stitches along.
- Stitch selection - This display is different on ever machine but it’s almost always found on the right side of the machine. Depending on the machine you’ll need to use dials, buttons, or even a touch screen to select your stitch.
- Fly wheel - The big wheel on the far right side of the machine that moves the needle up and down.
- Pedal - This plugs into the side of the machine and makes it go when stepped on! It’s pressure sensitive on most machines, though some older ones have speed settings as a switch or dial on the machine itself.
It sounds complicated, but once you get used to your machine, sewing’s a breeze! Now let’s take a look at the kinds of needles and feet you can get for your machine.
Machine Needles
- Standard or Universal needles - General needles for pretty much any project you’d need to do. Make sure to have a lot of these around since you’ll be using them the most.
- Microtex or Sharp needles - Sharper than your universal needles, these are good for silk and other tightly woven fabrics.
- Ball-point or Jersey needles - Needles with rounded tips, these push between knit fabric weaves instead of splitting them.
- Stretch needles - These needles are specifically for stretchy, spandex fabrics. There’s an indentation below the eye on these (called a “scarf”), making it much harder for the machine to accidentally skip stitches.
- Jeans or Denim needles - Extra strong with sharp points, denim needles are great for thick, heavy weave fabrics.
- Top stitch needles - The long eyes on these needles make them able to thread multiple ends or thicker machine threads, like embroidery or button hole thread.
- Embroidery needles - The “scarf” on these needles is deep like with stretch needles to prevent the embroidery thread from shredding.
- Metallica needles - Embroidery needles specifically designed for use with metallic thread.
- Leather needles - Needles with exceptionally sharp points and strong shafts that help them cut into leather or suede as they sew.
- Twin or Triple needles - These allow for multiple rows of stitching at once.
- Wing needle - A needle with two broad metal “wings” on the sides that pushes the threads of your fabric aside as you sew. These are specifically for heirloom and antique stitching and is something pretty advanced that I haven’t figured out yet.
- Quilting needles - Longer needles with sharp points to stitch through many layers.
Machine Feet and Attachments
- Straight stitch or Standard foot - Used for generic sewing of straight stitches. If your machine has multiple throat plates, the one with the smallest hole will help to keep the fabric from being pushed down and jamming the machine.
- Zipper foot - There’s a bunch of different looks for a zipper foot but they’re all small and place the needle close to the edge of the foot. These are used to sew concealed zippers into garments and in cosplay you’ll likely be needing that feature!
- Blind hem foot - When used correctly, this foot will help you produce a nice hem where the stitching is hardly visible. It takes a lot of practice though. I’ll explain about blind hems in a later post.
- Narrow hem or Picot foot - You can use this foot for narrow rolled hems. I’ve never used it, though.
- Overcasting foot - This foot is for getting right up to the edge of the fabric and stitch with a zig-zag or an overcast stitch (if your machine has an overcast). It’s basically an alternative for those of us who don’t have an overlock machine to serge fabric edges. (See the end of the post for info on overlock machines)
- Walking foot - My favorite foot! The walking foot is especially great for stretch fabrics as it prevents them from shifting as you sew. My machine has a built in one, but there are attachment feet available for most machines.
- Gathering foot - Made for ruffles and frills, a gathering foot will automatically gather one layer of fabric to another. I don’t actually have one of these so I just use the ease method (which I’ll explain in a later post)
- Clear foot - This foot is clear so you can see the thread as you work, and often times it has a deep groove in the bottom so it can slide over decorative stitching easily.
Last but not least I want to touch on Sergers/Overlock machines. If you have any t-shirts, take a look at the inside edge of the hem. Chances are it’s been finished with an overlock stitch. This special stitch prevents the fabric from unraveling and reinforces interior seams. A serger is a great buy and most costumes will benefit from the piece edges having been overlocked. The machines come equipped with an interior blade that cuts the excess from the edge of the fabric as you overlock it to achieve that clean edge beneath the thread, but you need to be careful that you don’t cut off too much.Even if having a serger is great, though, I’ve gotten by for years without one either by using an overcast stitch on my home machine (see above) or just by being careful while wearing the costume. It’s not a necessary machine to make a good cosplay, far from it, but it does help keep your costumes from needing repair longer and I recommend using one if you have the opportunity.
If you do decide to shop for an overlock machine, make sure you look up reviews and even try it out in the store if you can, just like you would if you were purchasing a sewing machine. This equipment is all too expensive not to make sure you know what you’re getting.
That’s it for now, cosbunnies. I’ll see you next time when we’ll cover different kinds of thread and some basic stitches!
c. 1892 by Singer Manufacturing Co.
(Source: feels-like-a-peeniss)
“Be thrifty,
but not covetous”
— George Herbert
Coca cola evolution bottles
Vintage Coca Cola calendar circa 1901 featuring model Hilda Clark sitting at a table drinking a glass of coca cola. Hilda Clark was the first person hired as an official Coca Cola spokesperson.